What’s old is new, what’s new is old. As announced back in March 2023, Rolex returns to ‘making Explorer I big again’.... size wise. Similar to back in 2016, Rolex again upped the case size for its Explorer I model, this time to 40mm (224270). The difference to back then is that Rolex decided to keep the 36mm model in production, at least for now.
good looks?
Other than the case size that is proportionally bigger, there is virtually no difference to the design elements between the 40mm and 36mm Explorer I models. Black dial, the ever iconic 3-6-9 numeral, sleek bezel. This simple but powerful design is iconic to enthusiasts and even folks outside of the watch community are already familiar with.
With these in mind, I think it may be the right move for Rolex to just re-create the same iconic design elements on the new 40mm model. The lug width at 21mm puts this new model along Rolex’s 41mm models with similar lug width, including the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, and Submariner.
who needs it?
People who think that the 36mm Explorer is too small for their wrist. Let’s be real, people do have insecurities about their wrist size. One survey that I found quite illuminating was the one presented by Mark Cho for the Horological Society of New York. It revealed that men tend to overestimate the size of their own wrists. While in the past 36mm case size - a classic, some say - was rarely doubted as men's size, recently there seem to be a general consensus that it is too small for men. While I respectfully disagree with that notion, I understand that these views show that there is a case for having an alternative size for Explorer I at 40mm.
People who are patient enough to be on the waiting list. Rolex watches in general have been really difficult to get at retail. This new model may probably be no different. With bigger case sized model being more popular among the newer generation enthusiasts and also a hot new recent release and, some say it could add a few - if not many - rows to an already long waitlist. That being said, I do want to speculate that folks who are looking for watches at this case size would rather go for the Submariner or Explorer II anyways. At 41mm, these two models are generally appreciated more by newer generation enthusiasts. So does this mean the 40mm Explorer I model will have better availability at retail? Perhaps.
Do Rolex need it? With the discontinued Milgauss model (116400GV), there may be a gap in the Rolex lineup for 40mm watches. From a design point of view, this is especially more evident where the 40mm and larger models all have crown guards and thicker bezel. Having the Explorer I at 40mm should provide options for those looking for a sleek and clean sports model at this size range.
who's going to hate it?
Purist and Rolex classics enthusiasts. Generally enthusiasts would agree that 36mm is a classic watch size. Rolex in particular had its earlier models like the Submariner and Milgauss originally at 36mm, as well as its longstanding Datejust model lineup at this case size since its inception. The Explorer I is also similar. In addition, it also has a long history along with the Submariner and Datejust, and is probably also one of the most known and recognizable models. I would imagine changes to an iconic watch like this will not be without criticism from enthusiasts. And understandably so, the reception has been mixed so far.
People with small wrist. First of all let me reiterate that the 36mm Explorer I is not going to go anywhere, for now. With the addition of this new 40mm model, there will be much more options for enthusiasts who prefer 40mm or larger case size. Currently Rolex only has very few options for enthusiasts with smaller wrist size, including the Datejust, Oyster Perpetual, Yachtmaster, and the newly released 1908. The new 40mm Explorer I certainly doesn't offer any solution for this crowd.
Couples who share their watches. It's not uncommon to see couples who share their watch collection together. 36mm case size is generally versatile enough to be a unisex size and is a perfect option for couples who do share. Again, the new Explorer I at 40mm may not cater to these group of enthusiasts.
how about?
Oysterflex bracelet. How could one apply a modern iteration to the Explorer I without disrespecting its history? How about an Oysterflex bracelet? It may be a challenging task to upgrade an already near perfect watch. A grey Oysterflex bracelet could offer a more outdoor feel to the wearer, still allow the Explorer I to maintain its minimalistic design and also go together with the brushed stainless steel case. Thats not a bad idea, no?
Coloured dials. With the release of a new model comes an opportunity to try out new design, perhaps even creating a new distinct model line entirely. Rolex had done this in the past by creating the Yachtmaster, at a time when they experimented on a new Submariner model. Perhaps a different dial color - in addition to a different case size - could make it distinct enough to the original 36mm Explorer I. Again, this is something they had done in the past too. Not so long ago, Rolex had more dial colour variety for their 3-6-9 Air-King model before it was discontinued in 2014. After all, what's new is old, what's old is new, right?
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